Venezuela
Guyana
Suriname
French Guiana
Brazil (Part 1)
Brazil (Part 2)
Paraguay
Argentina
Uruguay
Chile
Bolivia
Peru
Ecuador
Colombia

SURINAME

DECEMBER 2005


Paramaribo: Central Market

Suriname, a former Dutch Colony, is in far better shape than Guyana, their neighbor to the west. I'm guessing the reason is because when Guyana ditched the British, the Brits responded like rich parents saying, "Fine, you're on your own!" The Dutch, however, continued to send Suriname delicious European chocolates and even the occasional tourist. Their influence is obvious, but I've been to Holland many times, and trust me, Paramaribo (the capital) ain't no Amsterdam.

So I figure I lost about five pounds from my bout with food poisoning. I highly recommend this form of dieting. Who needs carb counting and exercise? Nothing works better than some good, old fashioned fluid release from both ends. I will admit to beelining to McDonald's immediately upon arriving in Paramaribo. When in need of a large calorie fix, who else are you going to call?

Some observations about Paramaribo:

  • There are many different races and cultures here living in perfect harmony: Muslims, Jews, Europeans, Maroons (blacks), Indians, and a substantial (and I mean substantial) Chinese community.
  • This is a safe city.What a pleasure to be able to walk around day or night taking pictures without being harassed or threatened.
  • The food here is really good. I had some great dumplings at a Chinese restaurant, some fantastic Indian food, and delicious pastries.
  • Not many ATMs accept foreign bank cards, but there are a few, and that's more than enough. Try the RBTT bank.
  • All guidebooks recommend the Guesthouse Albergo Alberga. Great choice. This may be the only place I've stayed that told me that they were overcharging me and lowered the price to the correct rate.
  • There's just something wrong with Christmas songs and decorations when it's 97 degrees with 1 million percent humidity.
  • On television, I saw a long advertisement for a local furniture store. Pictures of low-quality furniture were being flashed over musical scenes from the movie Grease
  • At a bookstore, there was a shelf of English-language books. Many of them were classics like "The Iliad," but there was also a copy of "Dr. Atkins New Diet Revolution" and Mark Fuhrman's "Murder in Greenwich." Hasn't anybody told the people of Suriname that Dr. Atkins is dead and the murder in Greenwich has been solved?

    In order to leave Suriname and go to French Guyana, I took a small bus a few hours east to the small town of Albina. Upon arrival, a young guy with an orange shirt begged to take me across the river. After going to immigration, I returned to the river and was surrounded by a dozen people pleading with me for the fare. It was quite a scene. The man with the orange shirt pointed out that he was indeed the first one to ask. I told everyone I was going go with him. Nobody seemed to take issue, and they all quickly disappeared.

    Once in the small, wooden boat, Mr. Orange Shirt and his brother started it up and began the 15-minute ride across the Maroni River into French Guyana. I was clearly being overcharged, but money was the furthest thing from my mind. I was much more concerned that one brother was driving the boat while the other was quickly bailing out water with a blue frisbee.

    Just a warning, though. I've heard stories about bozos trying to get through this country without a visa. In theory, one could cross the rivers on both ends of Suriname without passing through immigration. Bad idea. If you've stumbled upon this page while researching Suriname, trust me...pay the US$45 dollar fee. There is a police checkpoint on the road to the capital. You've been warned.

    FYI: I know that every guide book instructs visitors to get an additional passport stamp at the immigration office in Paramaribo before leaving the country. This is no longer necessary. You heard it here first. To visit Surniname (U.S. Citizens), all you need to do is...

    1. Get Visa
    2. Get stamped coming in and tell them how long you are staying
    3. Get stamped when you leave.

    That's it!


    Paramaribo: Independence Square


    Cultures coexist peacefully in Paramaribo


    This may be the only place in the world where a mosque and synogogue are sitting next to each other.
    Note the Star of David on the fence (above the car in the middle).
    Although the synogogue itself is not in view, the white building is on its property.


    Is Coca Cola making a large delivery to the Presidential Palace?


    Roopram has unbelievable Indian food that you eat with your hands.
    There are several located in Paramaribo, but this two-story one is the largest.


    Country Fountain is a great bakery outside the city center.
    It is owned by Fernandez, the conglomerate that operates the local Coca Cola bottling plant.


    Albina, Suriname: Boats wait to cross the Moroni River into French Guyana


    Crossing from Suriname into French Guyana on a small wooden boat